Islamic Cultural Center

As we stepped off the bus, the women were handed a small package. Inside was an abaya, the long back robe which women wear, and a hijab, a scarf which covers the head. We were standing next to the oldest mosque in Qatar. It was a little over 50 years old--not much older than the country itself.

The tour director explained to us that the morning was meant to be a dialouge between those of the Muslim faith and those outside of it. The Dean of the Georgetown Qatar campus (the one without the beard) listened intently, as did the rest of us. Standing outside the mosque we received a basic lesson on the origin and tenants of Islam. Someone asked why it was, despite having dressed ourselves for the occasion, that we could not go inside the mosque. Apparently, even though mosques are always open and accepting places for prayer, this one happened to have been accidentally locked. The keeper of the key could not, at that moment, be contacted. We milled around outside and listened to the tourguide answer questions, peeking into the courtyard where we could.

We got back on the bus and headed for the second mosque, the largest in Doha. It overlooked the Gulf and the Corniche. This one, fortunately, was unlocked. We went inside to find a beautifully lit open space with lush red carpet. Our shoes, following tradition and the instructions we were given, were left outside.

 

Inside, our conversation continued. Questions ranged from the relationship between the Old and New Testament and the Koran as told by Prophet Mohammed. The latter was a higher consummation of the former. Our guide was careful to insist that Islam had been deeply misunderstood by Westerners. He stressed the central role of peace and brotherhood. He explained the traditions of charity in Muslim communities. Someone asked if charity extended outside to non-Muslims. Priority is given to those within the community. He explained the system of daily prayers, showed us how to pray, how to wash before prayers, and how to stand shoulder to shoulder in the mosque to emphasize the equality of brotherhood. He explained the technological evolution of the call to prayer, and how the traditions of having someone go to the top of the minaret and sing the call changed to using amplified speakers. This did not occur, he explained, without careful consultation of the Koran. The technology was deemed reconcilable with the Prophet’s teaching because it furthered the purpose of the call--that is, for as many people to hear it as possible. This was how Islamic scholars debated the acceptance of technology. It was decided at some point, however, that the call could not be recorded  and replayed. Many of us learned for the first time that it is, five times a day, live voices that we hear echoing throughout Doha.

We went upstairs to the women’s section of the mosque, like the balcony section of a theatre, but behind a lattice of woodwork to prevent those below from seeing the women and being distracted by them. Someone asked why it was so much smaller than the men’s section. Women are not expected to attend prayers at the mosque, our guide explained, because of the burdens of the family. They are obliged to pray, but it is only expected that the men actually go to the mosque regularly.

The discussion continued, topics ranging from women’s role in Islam, the treatment of non-believers, and conversion. We became aware that one of our hostesses was an Australian who had converted to Islam some years before; she was fully covered, and it was not until she spoke that we realized her nationality. She provided a detailed narrative about the questions of reconciliation between modern life and Islam. Later she told the women how Islam had made sense to her once she learned it, and she described something ‘already there’ in her soul that it had matched. Her secular family had supported her, and here she was, working at the Qatar Islamic Cultural Center in Doha. It was to her workplace where we went to next. We all already knew the building; it was the most useful landmark to navigate in the old part of town. “The swirl” was a common addage for it.

As we disembarked from the bus and entered the building there was a ten minute delay while they figured out how to turn the lights on in the auditorium—reminiscent of the lost key at the first mosque. Once the problem was solved, we sat and continued the question and answer discussion for a few minutes, learning the history of the Center. The swirl was built a few years ago to house a long-standing organization that had a mission to bring Islam to all those who came to Doha. It also worked to promote Islam in the wider world. We learned that the salaries of our guides and the elaborate building had been funded by the Emir and the state treasury.

Our final stop for the day was “upstairs.” We divided up into two groups—men and women. The men went to the third floor, the women to the second. As we stepped off the elevator, we were instructed to take off our abayas. The demeanor of our hostesses changed dramatically. They began chatting and laughing, and even introduced themselves. We gathered for a traditional meal of lamb and rice, sitting on the floor in a circle and eating with our hands. During and after lunch several young girls offered to put henna designs on the women’s hands.

Upon our departure, we were given our second free gift to take home. (The abaya had been the first). It was a small bag of 'literature' on Islam. This included "A Brief Illustrated Guide to Understanding Islam," with a full explanation of how Islam predicted modern science. "Islam in Brief" and "A Brief Look Upon Islam" seem to be about the same things, including descriptions of the Five Pillars, Mohammed's life, and the general practices of the faith. The most provacative, however, was entitled "Islam is your Birthright." We had, after all, enjoyed a whole morning of activities, access to holy places with a highly educated guide, and an elaborate lunch--all free of charge. So now my coffee table has some new conversation pieces.